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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
Posts: 23
I am in need of some individual battery cells to fix my CODA battery.

If you are the person that bought the cells posted for sale here a year or so ago, I'd like to buy some of your cells..........

I do not know how many cells in my battery are at issue, but I'd like to buy 12-16 before I drop the battery from the car. I've been told the battery is made up of approx 117 clusters of 6 cells (702 total cells) and that one cell going bad out of the 702 could be causing my problem. I figure if I have a dozen cells, I should be covered (but no doubt Murphy is laughing, and when I drop the battery, I'll find one more bad cells than I obtained to fix the battery :-))

I've contacted Rick at CODA cars, he had no cells, and CODA Energy in the hopes they are using the same cells in their energy storage systems (have not heard back from them yet). If I fail, I may need to contact the battery manufacturer in China... not looking forward to having to go that far. On the bright side, Rick will need more batteries to make the rollers sellable, so I have hopes he'll get a line on the batteries.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:55 pm
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Well this answers a couple of the questions I had for you in the other post. Good luck! I think I'd be interested in either buying cells or at least knowing where I can get them. I'd like to be prepared for my vehicle when it does the same thing...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 5:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
Posts: 23
Well Rick (now doing Mullen) said he should be able to get me some spare cells. So this weekend I began the journey toward getting the battery out of our CODA and diagnosing how many bad cells we actually have. To get things started, I have the CODA manual.. which is mostly there, but I didn't follow the sequence (at least for the mechanical).

Please note, this is what I'm doing, the following is for information only.... I in no-way would endorse the method or warranty it's validity or safety. I am working safe, staying out from under the car, and never getting any body parts near the electrical or between heavy items. I'm also using high voltage rated insulated tools.

Per the manual I did the following:

I removed the front and rear stamped aluminum protective covers.

Disconnected the 12V battery

Removed the jumper loop from the front of the battery (required a special key that is attached to the front battery protective pan)

Removed the two battery cooling/heating ducts attached to the front of the battery (basically big rubber hoses that look nothing like the ducts in the manual, also not going into the outer edges as on the "show" battery)

Unplugged the main power connector under the hood, checked for less than 1V on both A and B terminals... both had 0V

Disconnected the battery:

Unplugged the charger connection to the battery (need a tiny straight blase screw driver to poke in a tiny interlock allowing you to slide the un-lock, then you can push on the ribbed area of the "teeter-totter" lock to unlock the connector (hold the teeter-totter while pulling of the connector),

Disconnected one other small clip (has a red lock you slide out) to the battery.

Disconnected the then the main power to the battery (required you to stick a straight blade screwdriver and ever so slightly tip it, to unlock the handle). I did the main battery last as it will have exposed terminals once the connector is removed- not sure if they are hot once the front jumper is removed, but playing it safe and assuming EVERYTHING IS LIVE.

Disconnected the battery maintenance/diagnostic connector (twist the ring counterclockwise)

I'll try to take pics to better explain. I was just happy to get all the connectors off without braking any of them. I slide zip-pock bags over all the disconnected connectors, and over the now open connections under the hood and on top of the battery. I wish I had a "naked connector to put on the battery as it is sort of un-nerving to have two exposed blades with 300V between them "open"..... seems to me CODA must have some sort of shipping and service protective cap!

I do not have a lift, or the CODA battery lift, So I'm approaching it from the only way that seemed logical to me, to lift the car off the battery.

I made a battery tray from six of the small harbor freight dolly's (overkill) and 1 x 4 furring strips. I wanted to support the battery fully. As designed, there is a dolly on each of the six corners of the battery pack. I'll upload an image when I get a chance.

I put the car up a little by insert 2 x 8 x 24" wood under each tire. This worked out nicely allowing me to put the battery cradle under the battery with about 3/8" clearance.

I removed the front, rear, left rear and right rear battery mounting bolts (leaving the front and rear "nuts" these actually are nuts holding two battery guide pins on the battery). Next I progressively removed the left and right side bolts, basically lowering the battery onto the home-made battery tray. It worked great. the battery is now "free" from the car.

After making the cart, it only took me a little over an hour to drop the battery.

I ran out of time, so maybe in the next week I'll start raising the car, on 2x8 (1.5 inches) at a time. Based on measurements I've taken, it looks like I'll need to get the car about ten inches off the ground to allow me to roll the battery out from underneath it (out the back).


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 3:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
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I got the car high enough to roll the battery out the back. It took less than I thought it would, only had to put four 2 x 8's under each tire (total 6.0 inches). The surprise (which should not have really been one) was once the battery was free... the suspension freed up about 3 inches putting the bottom of the car about 14-1/2" off the ground. It needs to be that high to clear the rear suspension lower A-arms which angle out to the rear tires at a steeper angle than when the battery is attached to the car.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
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I was asked for an update: I found a single cell low (out of 104). Also found that it is nearly impossible to replace a single cell the way CODA made the battery. 6 cells are welded with bus bars, and the groups of six cells are welded (again with bus bars) into trays of cells... each tray is tied together with bolted on jumpers. To make things tougher for me, my bad cell is below a platform with the battery management controllers. I've spoke with the "CODA" experts and soon will try to revive the single bad cell by charging it through the BMS leads to it using a 3.2 volt, 1 amp cell phone charger. I was also told I really need to get hold of an unreleased BMS software module update CODA did to address a known issue relating to the BMS's inability to keep the cells of the battery in balance or I'll likely be back in the same spot (assuming I can revive the low cell). I have "seemed" to find a way to get individual cells, but the way the battery is assembled, it is not designed to be able to replace individual cells, just a full tray of cells. Even Brian at Thunderstruck motors, who has a car with a similar issue does not feel individual cells can be replaced. A former Exec at CODA referred me to two CODA repair experts, both pointed me to try and revive the single cell, and to find the updated BMS software (somehow). When I bought the car I very specifically asked if individual cells could be easily replaced and was told yes. That is not true. Overall not very happy with our situation.

How certain am I it can be fixed? Unless CODA starts up again and I can trade in the battery/get a replacement tray of cells AND get a BMS update, I'm not feeling very positive. My CODA has been "down" for nearly 7 months and I'm out shopping for a low mileage Gen 1 Honda Insight..... at least it is designed to be able to replace individual cells.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:24 pm
Posts: 23
http://www.justrealpower.com/en/list.php?pid=2&ty=9
option to get cells see link above.

I just pulled the pack out on my coda last weekend. I am adding a additional heater to the pack so I can charge it in the winter.
I still have the cover off the battery and will try to figure out how I would deal with that issue (since it could happen to any of us).

I appreciate you sharing about their bms issues, :idea: now while I can I am going to add leads to all of my 104 cells now so I can monitor and balance my pack externally with my own bms.

I will post pictures and video to keep those interested informed.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 4:42 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
Posts: 23
I look forward to your suggestions!

Yep, that's the cell..... and that's the problem, see how the cell is set up for the (resistance welded) connections: http://www.justrealpower.com/en/show.php?id=91

Image

I'll contact them to see if they will ship from Japan to the U.S and the per cell cost.

If the price is right, maybe I can purchase enough and get the people that assembled the original CODA battery to weld me up a tray.. or maybe carry the tray with the bad cell to them, and they can replace the one bad cell since they should have the welding equipment needed...

Thanks,
Jay

I had to laugh, they spelled their own company name wrong in their contact info:

Juest Real Power Tech CO.LTD
Phone:+86-755-29924339
E-MAIL:mail@justrealpower.com
Skype: justrealpower
Skype: xueming208
QQ: 83945988
Address: 7th floor of B4b building in Yingzhan Industrial Park Kengzi Town Pingshan New area Shenzhen City Guangdong Province China


Side note, we found and bought a 2001 Gen 1 Honda insight with only 90,000 miles on it (battery replaced not to long ago) this last weekend.... so at least for the time being, we have a vehicle for commuting so I can continue the quest to repair the CODA with a little less pressure..


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 3:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:20 pm
Posts: 23
OK, I have a friend that speaks Mandarin, She called today and was quoted 78 RMB (approx $13) per cell. So, thinking group buy, any others interested to try to reduce the potential shipping?

My next step is to try and see if any part of the company that assembled the batteries for CODA still exists to see if maybe I can carry the bad tray of batteries to them and have them remove the one bad cell and weld in a new one.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:55 pm
Posts: 29
What's the shelf life on these? I've only got 8,000 miles on my car and would be open to ordering new cells, but would rather not have to store them for several years.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:24 am
Posts: 2
I would like to get some of those cells, $13 each is a great price. Maybe just order a dozen to make sure they are good and the correct ones. if you think you have a bad cell best to replace the complete 6p string, that is 6 of these cells that are in parallel with each other . I'm sure we can get them installed if we can get the right ones. The ones in the car have shrink wrap around them, these cells look more like the prototype cells that were in the first few cars made. They should have a 10 year shelf life . But I do believe that if you have a pack going bad, that replacing a few 6p packs will not get you up and running for long and you will soon see more cells failing.
We are seeing a number of cars that are used for commuting (80 miles+ per day) with failing cells.
if you want your pack to last? charge at 60 miles, and charge completely. Don't run it down below 30 percent ever and if the lightening bolt light comes on, charge before driving any further. also if you are running down the freeway at 80 mph, turn the heater off. best to drive the speed limit.
Brian Hall
thunderstruck Motors


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